PORT HEDLAND IN DECLINE.

 

Sunday Times, Perth, 10 May, 1914

A Trip Up the Nor'-West Coast

With Glimpses of the Ports En Route.

- Prosperous Geraldton and Carnarvon -

- Port Hedland in the Doldrums - 

- A School Strike -

- Piebald Broome -

- The Charon and its People -

(By "A.T.S.")

SS Charon (courtesy Flotilla Australia)

Built 1903
2,682 gross tons
306 ft. length
45 ft. beam
10 knots
single screw

We called at Geraldton, which seems

to be a flourishing town. It has 

grown largely near the site of the 

present railway jetty, drawing the 

population from the earlier settled 

portion, but I am told that a better 

jetty is to be built nearer Point Moore, 

which will again disturb the equilibrium 

and draw away the trade. I presume it 

is necessary to build the new jetty, 

but it seems a pity to disturb the existing 

order of things. 

Carnarvon seems to be a stationary town. 

There is little progressive or inviting in 

its appearance. A large amount of public 

money has been spent on the jetty, tramway, 

and wharf, which. latter protects the town

from the infrequent floods in the 

Gascoyne River. We spent only half an

hour in the town of Carnarvon, and

saw nothing of interest except a few

nice residences and a very fine hotel

the Gascoyne Hotel partly built of 

reinforced concrete, and apparently,

from an outside view, fitted up with

modern sanitary appliances. This hotel

is close to the tram terminus, and faces

the river. 

Of course we did not land at Onslow, 

where we took on board, some 69 tons of 

ore - silver lead, I think, from some of the 

back country mines.

We lay at Port Hedland for 24 hours! This 

is clearly a decaying town - many shops and 

houses are empty, and there are announcements 

for some windows of departures from the town.

It is .hard to say what keeps the place alive, 

except, the shipment of stock and wool and 

the forwarding of stores to the inland stations.. 

At the moment Hedland is agitated by the 

memory of the late school strike, when the 

children were withdrawn for a fortnight as

a "protest" against the neglect of the Public 

Works Department in connection with the 

school. It appears that the school was planned 

by those who only knew Hedland in the cool 

season, and consequently no provision was

made for ventilation on the side from which 

the prevailing winds in the hot season blow. 

It is abundantly clear that the matter could 

have been declined by the expenditure of 

about £5, but the Public Works officials 

obstinately refused to recognise their blunder

and to remedy what their ignorance had 

occasioned. 

Immediately above the floor of two sides of 

the school there are long, hinged shutters, 

which can be raised to allow the wind to 

enter at the floor level, and ventilate the 

school during the cool season, but on the 

two other sides where such provision is more

necessary in the hot season, the walls are 

closed. There is a door on one side, but it 

is sheltered by a closed-in verandah end. 

As the building is of wood and is surrounded 

by a broad verandah, and as there need be 

no interference with the framework,

sufficient openings could easily be made

at small expense, if the officials weren't

so pig-headed.

The unfortunate schoolmaster seems

to have been ground between the upper

and nether millstones in this matter. 

Apparently the Works officials complain 

that his action brought about the agitation 

and the strike. At the inquiry by the Resident 

Magistrate, Mr. Brown, it was clearly shown 

that the schoolmaster had taken no part in

the agitation but had preserved a strictly 

accurate attitude. He will suffer from the 

strike, if it is only in his examinations, and 

therefore it is most unlikely that he would 

have fomented a strike or encouraged it.

We arrived there in the morning at about 

8.30 o'clock, and as there were some 

influential people on board the train was 

delayed to allow them to catch it. I 

understand that there is only one train a 

week, and that sometimes, though the 

steamer may arrive a couple of hours after 

the train is timed to depart, the departure is 

not delayed, and consequently the mails for 

the interior are left to lie at Hedland for a 

week or so. I can hardly believe that this is 

true, but I am assured it is a fact.  

All along the coast we have had delightful 

weather and a good time, although on our 

departure from Fremantle the Charon, so far 

as the first-class was concerned was 

overcrowded. This was largely caused  by 

men, women and children coming aboard 

without having booked their passages. The 

"Charon" is somewhat like the Irish omnibus 

which, when full, can always hold another 

passenger. The captain and his officers 

accommodated some of the passengers 

in their rooms, and beds were made up in the 

smoking and music rooms. Not withstanding 

the overcrowding everything passed off 

without trouble, thanks largely to the fact 

and ability of Capt. Dalgleish and the chief 

steward. In one cabin, in which there were 

four berths were three ladies, one girl, and 

three babies, and yet good humor prevailed,

and trifling discomforts were over-looked. 

I had heard that the catering for this ship 

is done by the captain and chief steward, 

and that consequently the food would be 

unsatisfactory. I am pleased to say that so 

far as myself and my daughter saw there

is no foundation for any such idea. Our

food has been good, clean, and abundant:-

well-cooked and well-served, and so far 

we have had no reason to regret having 

voyaged in the Charon, though she has 

no cold storage and has to depend on an 

ice-house.

Now that the bulk of the passengers

have left we have each a state room

to ourselves, and will no doubt be very

comfortable between here and Singapore. 

At first the bathing accommodation 

seemed crude after the Indarra, Katoomba, 

and Warilda. There is no hot water in 

the bathrooms, nor is there any fresh water 

showers, but we are supplied each morning 

with a warm tub of fresh water, and after 

a salt water plunge we wash ourselves with

the fresh water, then with a small dipper 

pour the water over our bodies, which seems 

to have, an excellent cooling effect, so we 

soon forgot to sigh for the bathrooms of the 

inter-state steamers.

There seems to be a little neglect in small 

matters that I expect only requires to be 

mentioned to be rectified. For example, 

after leaving Fremantle there were a great 

many seasick, and they were not supplied 

with those cleanly, thick-paper storm-pans 

to which we are accustomed on the the 

other boats, and there was an insufficient 

supply of tin storm-pans, the appearance of 

which was not likely to make a seasick 

person feel any better.

There were some complaints by the mothers 

of the numerous babies on board that they had 

\a difficulty in getting bath tubs to bathe their 

babies in, but this was soon overcome. After

all, these were only minor faults, but it must be 

remembered we had on the whole an exceedingly 

smooth passage.

Had it been otherwise these little troubles may 

have been more apparent. Though the Charon is 

an old boat, she is well adapted to the trade, and 

is certainly very comfortable.

Point Sampson, which is one of the capes which 

form the old port of Tientsin or Point Walcott is 

distinguished by a high jetty of 1846 feet in length. 

Here we landed 260 pedigree sheep from Katanning, 

not having lost a single one on the voyage, much to

the delight of the owner. Mr. Gillam, who loudly 

praised the chief officer for his care and attention 

to the stock.

There seems to be a little feeling among the Cossack 

people against Point Sampson and its jetty. Apparently 

at one time all cargo was landed into lighters, and as 

this was monopolised 30s. a ton was charged for

lighterage. This has been largely removed by the jetty, 

but even now cargo for Cossack has to be taken from

the jetty by a motor launch to Cossack. I am told that 

there was a tram for Cossack, but the Public Works 

Department pulled up the rails and left them lying near 

the route of the tram. 

There is a steam tram to Roebourne, which makes the 

journey in about two hours. Apparently there are a fair 

number of motor cars in the district, some of which, run 

between Cossack and Roebourne, and when we arrived 

there were two private, motor cars waiting for their owners, 

who were on board the Charon.

A few hours after leaving Point Sampson we called at 

Balla Balla, where the four-masted ship Elginshire

is lying, taking in copper ore from Whim Creek. She is 

about half loaded, and will take about 3600 tons, which

she is getting at the rate of 60 tons per day. The captain 

came aboard, and I had an interesting talk with him.

He has struck his royal and topgallant yards, has one 

anchor down and two anchors ail ready to let go, so 

he has made his ship all snug in case of a blow. We 

passed the wreck of the steamer Eddystone, close 

to Depuch Island, on which we also saw from the

ship the wreck of the Crown of England and on the 

beach a lighter, reminders of the awful Koombana 

hurricane and loss of life in the same storm on Depuch 

Island. We could also see very clearly the white cross

which marks the gravies of some of the drowned, who 

were buried on the island.

I had been warned that there was an awful amount of 

drunkenness on the Nor'-West boats, but it is not apparent

on board the Charon. I have seen and heard of two or three 

cases, but nothing very bad. The late master of the Koombana 

who was my relative, told me that to control this traffic on his

ship was one of his worst troubles.

We arrived at Broome at breakfast time after a splendid passage 

from Hedland, and went alongside the jetty, which is half a mile 

long, the sea  being about three miles from the business part of the 

town, which is hidden from the jetty by high sandhills. Still, we 

could see a forest of masts of the luggers in the creek and on the 

flats.

A steam tramway runs from the sea end of the jetty right, through the

business town, and running round, a loop returns to the residential 

quarters; consequently we were able to have an excellent view of the 

town going through the principal streets without fatigue.

Between the jetty and the business town is the residential quarter, 

which is most refreshing to the eye after the other ports, as there 

are plenty of trees and grass, and the houses are spacious and well 

kept. There seems to be plenty of water laid on, from which the 

lawns are watered. Each bungalow stands on a large piece of ground,

the streets are broad, and consequently it is a pleasure to walk through 

the quarter; in the cool of the evening, or to ride through in tram, or 

motor car, of which latter there are two for hire.

All the bungalows are single-storey, with very broad verandahs, which 

in most cases have bougainvillea or other creepers growing over them. 

We were charmed with this portion of Broome. At the shore end of the 

jetty is a small, old cemetery, in which we saw the gravestone of one of 

the Forrests, who died here, in 1884, apparently a brother of Sir John. 

There are about four other gravestones in this now disused graveyard.

A. G. 'Bussell, late of Berth, has a shop in the main street of the 

residential quarter. We called upon him and had a chat. He looks 

well, and says he is doing very well, handling the largest quantity 

of chaff in the place. He has also a general store, which seems to 

contain everything likely  to be required by the Broome folk. A 

short distance further on is the office of the Broome "Echo", run 

by our old friend Barker, late of Leonora, on whom I called and 

had a chat with, and then walked through the business part of the 

town, the bulk of which is on a sandhill, and fronts the beach in an

inlet off Roebuck Bay. 

The place seemed very busy owing, apparently, to the large number 

of luggers in for provisions. Of course it swarmed with Chinese, 

Japanese and Malays. It was too hot to spend much time in this 

quarter, but it was not hot enough to prevent our walking to the

ship, which we did in about three quarters of an hour, allowing us 

time for lunch. 

The offices and premises of the Cable Company, which are 

advertised for sale. in "The Sunday Times," is a splendid property, 

standing on a large piece of land. I heard it was proposed to form 

a club, and endeavor to acquire this property, but that has apparently 

fallen through, and it is said that it is to be acquired by the Roman 

Catholics for a convent. 

In the cool of the evening we again went for an hour's walk through 

the residential portion of Broome, and also before breakfast next 

morning. Our opinion of the beauty of this part of Broome was

confirmed. The telephone seems to be largely used - apparently all 

the Europeans are subscribers. This is, of course, necessary owing 

to the large area of the town. Electric light is largely used. The post 

office is a fine building, in which the postal receivers for letters and 

newspapers are most ingeniously hidden beneath the receiving counter. 

We had to inquire for them after vainly searching for them.

At 1 a.m. we commenced taking 250 cattle on board from Streeter's 

station for Java. This took about five hours. It was most interesting to

watch the cattle coming down the race, built on the side of the jetty, 

and then walking into the hold of the Charon. Last evening, about 10, 

the Western Australia came alongside the jetty for about half an hour 

for passengers and mails, and then departed for Fremantle. Apparently 

the discipline is not of a high order on board this boat. I noticed that 

there was no gangway light shown, although some scores of people 

boarded and left the vessel. Had any accident occurred no doubt the 

ship would have been responsible and would have had to pay damages. 

We left about 10,.this morning, and are now, in beautiful weather,

heading for Derby. We are going inside the Lacepede Islands, will 

anchor to-night, at Cape Leveque, and reach Derby to-morrow. So 

far, we have thoroughly enjoyed our trip, and given the weather we

have had we cannot imagine a more pleasant holiday. 

courtesy Trove.