Western Mail, Perth, 19 May, 1916
COMMISSION ON CRUISE
ON BOARD THE N2.
BROOME TO FREMANTLE.
...If they have not made discoveries in respect
to tropical agriculture, possibilities, it is because
tide, time, and circumstances prevented inland
investigation. Having taken the evidence of
everybody concerned in the great pearling
industry in Broome which lives and breathes
and moves absolutely in M.O.P.- the commission
departed from the metropolis of the .North-West
on the evening of May 1, in the State steamer N2,
in company with a consignment of between 250
and 300 bullocks shipped at Derby.
The N2 is reputedly a good boat in rough
weather, she plods along steadily under
various conditions, without ever developing
a turn of speed, but she is neither an ideal
passenger nor an ideal cattle boat and her
limitations, not to say deficiencies, are
significantly outstanding.
One must not look a gift horse in the
mouth, or a borrowed steamer in the
engine room ; and if we are obliged to
use a German interned steamer, we
cannot very well complain that this
Teutonic "forced loan" is not up to par.
Engine-room trouble commenced even
before leaving Broome. The boilers were
in default. Naturally the run to Hedland
was not a track record, and as the weather
was breathlessly calm and hot, the unlucky
bullocks below suffered severely.
They did not complain - they simply died,
despite wind sails and all other alleviants
that could he applied in a boat not built
for cattle transport. Possibly it did not
matter so much about making good time
to Hedland, for when the N2 arrived there
in the early dawn, she found the Minderoo
anchored outside, waiting for flood tide
to enter. It is worthy of remark that the
Railway Department's notorious
punctiliousness about train-times is
demonstrated most signally in respect to the
Marble Bar tram. The Minderoo and N2 were
both lying outside all night; but the one train
a week to the Bar, was religiously despatched
to time next morning before two steamers with
mails and passengers from North and South,
could get into port.
The run to Balla Balla developed further weakness
in the boilers ; and when the picturesque wreck
relics of the great Koombana storm on Depuch
Island where the battered stern and twisted ribs
of the old Crown of England, still bear testimony
to what may happen in that anchorage were left,
more bullocks had to be thrown to the sharks.
The run to Point Sampson jetty developed
further eccentricities in the N2's machinery;
and her cargo shipment had to be
accomplished by the light of oil flares.
The German dynamo had struck and
darkness mitigated by candles in
improvised holders, reigned aboard the State
steamer. The ingenuity and perseverance
of her engineers however prevailed before
Onslow was reached. There was no chance
of a run ashore at the metropolitan centre
of the Ashburton; no possibility of learning
at first hand anything about its inland lead
treasures, which donkey and camel teams
are to drag 80 miles to the port. Neither
was it possible to see anything of the
Norwegian whaling settlement at Point
Cloates, where according to report, whale
-flesh is converted into excellent fertiliser,
whale skeletons milled into bone dust, and
jetties, tram lines, and buildings testify
to the energy and success with which the
hardy Nörseman prosecutes an industry
which Australians practically ignore. More
bullocks went overboard before passing
Point Cloates and Nor'-west Cape - where
the stranded Mildura still perpetuates the
memory of a great cattle-shipping disaster;
and where Exmouth Gulf provides excellent
grazing ground for the succulent dugong.
Rounding the cape the sunny calmness
which had proved so fatal to so many
bullocks gave place to invigorating breezes
and a lower temperature; but the N2's
boilers were still in default, and it
was not till about 5 in the morning
that Babbage Island jetty was made.
Hospitable Carnarvon intended to give the
Pearling Commission a reception; but all
that could be done was to take on board
what passengers had waited throughout the
night and push on to Sharks Bay.
The Commissioners, however, were not
destined to inhale the fragrance of Denham's
decaying pearl oyster sheds, or hear all
about dredging leases, the price of pearls,
and the low value of pearl oyster shell
a vastly different thing from W.O.P. A
big boat like the N2 rung serious risks
among the sandy shallows and uncertain
tides of Sharks Bay. The Koombana
roosted on a sandbank there for over
a week on her first Nor'-West trip; but the
N2 had better luck. A beacon, had been
washed away months ago and the steamer
then some 16 miles from Denham took a
shoal. There was a gentle bump and sliding
motion and she stopped. She would not back
off; anchors were got out, and hawsers tugged
in vain. It was a case of waiting for next flood:
and if that failed, there was with 10 days of
neap tides following, the prospect of waiting
for the next spring. In that case all the cattle
must have been sacrificed for fodder, and
especially water, would have utterly failed.
Luckily, however, the N2 came off at flood
tide, after 20 hours aground, and transferring
what cargo and passengers she had for
Denham to a lighter, made the best of her
way back past Cape Inscription lighthouse,
and thence southward to Geraldton.
what cargo and passengers she had for
Denham to a lighter, made the best of her
way back past Cape Inscription lighthouse,
and thence southward to Geraldton.
The delays and detentions had caused the
water supply to run short; the decrepit dynamo
again temporarily defied the engineer, and
when Champion Bay was reached in the early
morning, there was nothing to be done but take
some Geraldton water aboard, and make
for Fremantle as speedily as possible. The
chairman and one of the Commissioners
proceeded to Perth by train; the rest
went on by the steamer, and learned by
practical experience the root and basis of
the Geraldtonians' objection to pay rates for
their water supply.
An uneventful - except for boiler deficiencies
and a big list - run to Fremantle terminated
yesterday morning a trip commenced at
Broome on Monday May 1. The cattle
mortality was heavy - 19 beasts being
officially reported as gone overboard. If
the N2 cannot be laid up tor the thorough
overhaul which her machinery most urgently
needs, it would seem that, at all events,
Sharks Bay should be cut out of her
running list.
Humorous and enlightening. The point is reinforced, the coastal service had clearly deteriorated since the glorious days of Koombana.
courtesy Trove.
courtesy Trove.
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