A CLOSER LOOK AT NAVIGATION.

The following extracts are drawn courtesy the Hathi Trust, Australia Pilot, Volume 4, published 1920.

Spit point, 8 miles southwestward from Larrey Point, has a sand spit extending about 8 miles in a northwestward direction toward Turtle Isles; it dries off for a distance of miles at low water springs and at one spot 3 miles beyond.

Turtle Isles - The Northern Turtle Isle is about 10 miles 329 degrees from Spit Point; it is a mere heap of sand, about 1 mile in circumference and 35 feet high; and covered with course grass and some shrubs. A reef about 3 miles in extent, steep-to, and dry at low water surrounds North Turtle Island.

Little Turtle, 10 miles to the southward, is just above high water springs, and surrounded by a reef 1 1/4 miles in extent, with rocks on the outer edge above high water. 

Anchorage - between North Turtle Island Reef and shoals extending from Spit Point, there is a space of nearly 1 mile, with anchorage in 5 fathoms, with the southeastern extremity of the island, bearing about 0 degrees. This is considered the most convenient anchorage for communicating with the shore.

Tides - it is high water, full and change, at the Northern Turtle Isle at 11 h; ordinary springs rise 18 feet, neaps 12 feet. The current of rising tide sets southeastward, toward the shore, at the rate of 1 to 2 knots. 

Amphinome Shoals are numerous dangerous shoals, some dry at low water, with long lines of breakers, irregular soundings, and tide ripplings between; these front the coast between Mount Blaze and Spit Point, to the distance of about 20 miles.

From the De Grey River mouth, (these) sands and flats extend northward nearly to Amphinome Shoals, forming lines of breakers at low water, and from the outer edge the coast was not visible from the deck. 

Bedout Island (lat. 19 35, long. 119 6) situated about 24 miles northward of Poissonnier Point at the mouth of the De Grey river, is a coral sand islet, 1/2 mile in length northward and southward, 1/4 of a mile in breadth, 20 feet high, and covered with course grass. A reef, surrounds the island, and extends 1.500 yards from the northwestern side; 3 miles from the western side. where patches of rocks are uncovered at low water ; nearly 1/2 a mile from the southeastern end; and 1/3 of a mile from the northeastern end, with apparently shoal water beyond, as charted.

Light - A flashing white light 66 feet above high water, visible 13 miles, is exhibited from a white steel framework tower, 55 feet high, at the centre of the island. The light is unwatched.

Heavy breakers have been reported at about 6 miles southeastward of the island, as charted.

Anchorage - There is said to be good anchorage in 6 fathoms, 3 miles southward of Bedout Island, or between it and the breakers mentioned.

Tidal currents - the current of rising tide sets to the south eastward, and the falling tide to the northwestward, from 1 to 2 knots. The rise and fall observed was about 14 feet, but see paragraph on Turtle Isles previously given. 

Strong tide-rips were seen northeastward and southwestward of the island, indicating rocky and uneven ground.

Caution - A depth of 10 fathoms will be found close to most of the outer dangers between Lacepede Islands and Bedout Island, and also southwestward of Bedout Island westward of Turtle Isles. 

Vessels are recommended to pass northward of Bedout, as before mentioned. 

A picture of formidable barriers to large steamers between the coast and Bedout Island. It is extremely unlikely Captain Allen would voluntarily have ventured into this 'mine field'. In fact Mr. Moxon had this to say:

'Mr. Moxon in an interview stated

that nautical experts affirm that the

Koombana, to avoid certain destruction

near the Amphimone Shoals, had only

one alternative before her'.... to attempt

'to pass northward of Bedout'.

It makes sense that the steamer track, as represented, 'passed northward of Bedout Island.'

However,

In thick weather, it is advisable to keep seaward of the depth of 20 fathoms.  

To maintain 20 fathoms clearance of Bedout would have placed steamers some 30 miles to the westward of the island - a considerable detour. When Captain Allen charted his course the dense mass of clouds heralding a cyclone was on the western horizon, not to the north or northeast in which directions he was steaming. Curtailing the filling of tanks prematurely strongly suggests that he was aiming to pass Bedout within visual range of the structure before dusk (10 miles distant) due to the Light being out !

40 miles due north of position filling tanks in 'thick weather'.

Detour route in 'thick weather' would have given a 14 mile clearance of Bedout passing to the north of the island.

The detour route in 'thick weather' would still take the steamer directly between the two given positions marked on image, the one being Upjohn's coordinates. 

It cannot be overemphasised that the bulk of flotsam was discovered to the north of Bedout Island, a signicant amount between here and the vicinity of the so-called oil patch.

By deduction, whichever route Captain Allen tackled that infamous Wednesday, Koombana did pass north of Bedout Island.

Post repeat: 

https://koombanarevisited.blogspot.com/2020/05/the-bedout-light-controversy.html

The Advertiser, Adelaide, 8 April, 1912.

UNWATCHED LIGHTS.

To the Editor.

Sir--In our childhood we have heard or

read more or less mythical stories of ships

lured to their doom in the bad old days of

smugglers and wreckers by misleading

lights. At the present time we have, or

may have, somewhat parallel cases. I refer

to the latest innovation in coast lights, the

so-called "long-burning, un-watched A.G.A.

lights." These lights are supposed to be

absolutely reliable; but can that be said

of, or can it be true of, anything human

or made by human hands? I write you,

to point out that they constitute a very

grave menace to life and property. Such

a light exists on Bedout Island, where the

ill-fated Koombana appears to have gone

to her doom, and who will say how much

this light, or its absence, may have contributed

to the terrible disaster which we are at present 

lamenting? Some time back this Bedout Island 

light was reported to be out. About two years 

ago the Sydney owned barque Hippolas was 

lost in Cook's Strait, the loss being attributed 

to a similar light on Jackson's Head being 

extinguished. On the 11th ultimo, in Spencer

Gulf, being close to Middle Bank light, and

not being able to see it, I anchored rather

than proceed, through this "reliable un-watched 

light" being out. It is proposed to place a similar 

light on Citadel Island. at Wilson's Promontory, 

a locality where fogs and bad weather are very 

prevalent. These lights, in my opinion, and in 

that of other shipmasters with whom I have 

conversed, are not reliable, and should not be 

placed in important and dangerous positions, 

such as Bedout Island, for example. Economy

against human lives that is what it amounts to, 

and which is to obtain. In calling attention to this 

matter I trust that some abler pen than mine will 

take the matter up and ventilate it thoroughly. 

I venture to say that no Light should be un-

watched. Better no light at all, far better, than 

an unreliable one, which may cause disaster

and the loss of precious human lives,

I am etc..

G. PROVO,

Master S.S. Dilkera.

Newcastle, April 3, 1912.

I don't think nearly enough attention was paid during the Inquiry to the fact that the Light at Bedout was not functioning at the time. 

Captain Irvine, Chief Harbour Master, Fremantle, in charge of Harbours and Lights, submitted a rather implausible excuse that he was not aware of the Light being out until 1 week after the disaster. 

In fact Irvine was disingenuous about the whole affair and stated in the March gazette that the cyclone was responsible for the light being 'extinguished':

 'Western Australia—North-West Coast. NOTICE is hereby given that the hurricane which passed over Bedout Island—lat. 19.35 S. 119.6 E.—on the 22nd inst., extinguished the unattended light established on this island in December, 1909. Further notice will be issued as soon as the lamp has been re-lighted. Charts affected. No. 1055—Bedout Island to Cape Cuvier. No. 1048—Buccaneer Archipelago to Bedout. C. J. IRVINE, Chief Harbour Master. Harbour and Light Department, Fremantle, 30th March, 1912.'  

Mr. Moxon, Adelaide Steamship Company, affirmed that he had been made aware of the fact that the Bedout Light was out 1 week prior to the disaster. Given that Mr. Moxon knew about the Light being out we might assume that the information was passed both to Captain Irvine and Captain Allen (via Mr. Gardiner, manager of the Adelaide Steamship Company at Port Hedland). 

Departing Port Hedland that fateful day, Koombana would likely have arrived at a holding position to fill tanks 3 miles (ref. cattleman on board Bullarra) north of Port Hedland by about 11 a.m.. Being aware that the Light was out, Captain Allen had to reach Bedout Island before nightfall - dusk at this time of the year is 6.38 p.m.. To cover the distance of  '50 miles' would have taken the steamer, averaging 13.5 knots (operating speed) 3.5 hours, which was well within Koombana's capability in normal conditions. This would have allowed for a more reasonable 4 hours to fill tanks.

However, the gale-force headwind and a periodically racing propeller, had potential to slow the steamer's progress to about 10 knots. Why 10 knots? Captain Allen claimed that he was unlikely to make the spring tide access into Broome by the following morning, which translates into a 10 knot or less, average speed. This would have increased the time frame to 4.5 + hours and Koombana to have completed the filling of tanks by 2 p.m. = 3 hours. This is barely the time quoted by Captain Upjohn for filling two after tanks, under ideal conditions - and certainly not in heavy seas.

Captain Upjohn:

'How long would it take to fill them (tanks) ? - From 3 to 3 1/2 hours.'

Koombana was only in sight for approximately 2 hours, suggesting that Captain Allen was particularly anxious to clear Bedout before dusk, and in so doing could not have allowed adequate time to press up all the tanks. 

“Normally,” he (Bert Clarke) recalled, “ships going northbound were out of sight within 30 or 45 minutes, but this day as the storm was getting stronger I stayed up there in the tower watching the Koombana pitching and rolling for nearly two hours.”

Boyd, Annie. Koombana Days.

Captain Upjohn:

 

'And you last saw her? - About two hours after leaving.'

I believe the incomplete filling of ballast tanks and a shortfall in the fresh water tanks (not replenished at Port Hedland) created what is known as a free surface effect which could have disastrous effects on the stability of a vessel, particularly a lightly laden, top heavy one.

"Free surface effect. When a tank is partially filled, the liquid's centre of gravity position will change as the ship is inclined. Liquid in partially filled tank always decreases the initial metacentric height GM, righting lever GZ, and angle of vanishing stability."

Not only would this scenario have contributed to a reduced GM; reduced righting lever (ability to return to the upright after heeling) and reduced vanishing stability (the angle at which the steamer was likely to roll over), but would also contribute to a persistent list, such as that described when Koombana departed Port Hedland 

The scene was set for disaster.

There is some speculation as to the exact steamer route taken by Koombana, 'shaping a course' around the northern aspect of Bedout Island. 

How can it be assumed that the steamer track to Bedout Island from Hedland would follow that which I have presented on the Google Earth image? Firstly let's take another look at a period newspaper representation of the course taken:

Although not substantiated by evidence, Koombana might 'last (have been) seen here'.

We know from Captain Upjohn's statements (and other period sources) that after filling tanks 3 miles north of Port Hedland, Koombana initially headed due north. The reason? To clear obstructions such as that marked on the image below (SS Minilya grounded, 1901)and to create a clear trajectory past the Turtle islands. 

To achieve this clearance would have taken Koombana 10 miles north of Port Hedland at which point the course could have been altered to one bearing 30 degrees towards Bedout Island and which would theoretically bring the steamer to a position 10 miles off the island. 

Why 10 miles?

"and on a clear day the structure is visible from a distance of 10 miles."

Under normal circumstances (when the Bedout light was functioning) the light and 'structure' could be seen for at least 10 miles = nominal range of the light; but up to 14 miles (see Irvine notification below), depending on conditions. This would achieve two things:

- provide adequate clearance from the reef extending out from Bedout Island for 3 miles.

- the light and 'structure' reference points for 'shaping a course' around the island - especially at dusk and into the evening. 

It would, therefore, not have been practical or safe to approach the island closer than 10 miles or beyond visibility of the 'structure', testing the limited range of Light visibility, i.e. 14 miles.

It seems highly probable that this would have been the steamer track for Broome; a simple 30 degrees bearing, steaming 45 miles to a second turning point; final bearing adjustment, 65 degrees, directly for Gantheaume Point and Broome (203.5 miles) = safe clearance, 'shaping a course' around the northern aspect of Bedout Island as per images and references.

NOTICE TO MARINERS. Western Australia-North-West Coast. NOTICE is hereby given that on and after the 13th December, 1909, an Unattended, Dioptric, Fixed, Occulting Light of the Fourth Order will be exhibited from a steel tower (open braced) erected on centre of Bedout Island, Latitude 19deg. 35min. South, Longitude 119deg. 6min, East, the height of the focal plane above high water being 66 feet, and visible in clear weather about 14 miles. Special attention is drawn to the fact that the Light is unwatched, and therefore Shipmasters are cautioned against placing too much reliance on same. Charts affected. No. 1055-Bedout Island to Cape Cuvier. No. 1048-Buccaneer Archipelago to Bedout. C. J. IRVINE, Chief Harbour Master. Department of Harbour and Lights, Frcmantle, 14th December, 1909.

note the minimal deviation, less than 0.3 of a mile, between Irvine's coordinates and the actual coordinates.

The present day vessel course is different. The vessels follow a specific channel course resembling a gentle 'S' out of and into Port Hedland with anchorage positions as marked, abutting the 1912 presumed steamer track.

Koombana would have followed a specific beacon-marked course to arrive at the 3 mile position north of Port Hedland, for filling tanks. From there, as referenced, Koombana headed due north which would be problematic today due to patches of 'shallows' - unless of course during a spring tide, an additional 24 ft. gained ----> clear run north. The current shipping channel heads initially northwestward, not northward. 

"To the visitor for the first time it seems almost impossible that the steamer could negotiate the turns that are necessary to dodge the mud banks before reaching the jetty, and as the entrance has to be made whilst the tide is flowing, the tremendous run of the tide is seen."

If my assumed steamer course between Port Hedland and Broome is accurate, it would have brought Koombana to the vicinity of the 27.5 mile position (oil patch) and which would, if confirmed, prove that Koombana was on course for Broome when she foundered.

The Broome to Hedland 'sailing instructions' - see below - were nothing more than 'directions' to Bedout Island from Broome and from Bedout to Hedland; NOT the steamer course around Bedout!!  

courtesy Annie Boyd

Experiments were made at Fremantle,

and demonstrated that once the gas 

had been lighted, it would burn for 

months at a time, and so the lamp

was sent up as a Christmas gift to

the penguins and other sea birds who

inhabit Bedout Island. It resembled

an ordinary light-house, in that it

appears and disappears, but it burns

on for months at a time. The wonderful 

thing about the lamp is that there

is attached to it a sun valve, and every

time the sun sets it automatically ignites 

the gas, and upon rising temporarily 

extinguishes it.

And therein lay potential for the light to malfunction. 

courtesy Google Earth; Trove and

http://fishing-app.gpsnauticalcharts.com/i-boating-fishing-web-app/fishing-marine-charts-navigation.html?title=Western+Australia+-+Solitary+Island+to+Bedout+Island+boating+app#11/-19.1354/119.4410

Wartsila.

Koombana Days online resource - Annie Boyd.

Government Gazette, WA

courtesy Google Earth.

"WAITING UP ALL NIGHT FOR THIS BLANKY HOOKER TO COME IN."

The following entertaining article captures the Koombana era to perfection, halcyon days before the disaster, and when it was clearly a privilege to travel by this majestic flagship.

The Sun, Kalgoorlie, 26 June, 1910.

A TRIP FROM FREMANTLE TO BROOME. .

AMONG THE SQUATTERS AND PEARLERS.

By "VAGRANT"

THE Koombana is a smooth-running

ship. She is far and away the finest 

vessel in the 'Nor'-West trade, plying 

regularly between Fremantle and 

Wyndham, and capable of a speed

of 16 knots. Captain Rees, who has

had command since the boat was put in

to the West Australian service, enjoys an

immense popularity among the travelling

public. Previously the Koombana skipper 

was commodore of the big pearling fleet 

operating between Broome and Sharks 

Bay, so there is nobody better acquainted 

with the Nor-West coast than Captain 

Johnny Rees.

The crowd moving north was a mixed

sort, composed of squatters going home

to their runs, drummers on tour, pearlers 

returning to hunt again for the precious 

gems of the sea, and cattle-buyers

out to purchase stock for the markets.

There were also life assurance agents and

persons employed in the Customs 

Department. A callow youth was going to

Montebello Island to experiment in pearl-

breeding on a theory invented by some

old sea captain, Captain Irvine, Chief

Harbor Master, mingled with the throng,

and kept his weather-eye open for 

possible defects in the contour of the 

coastline.

A dreamy chap accompanying Colonial

Secretary Connolly was mistaken by one

Nor-Wester for the new lighthouse-keeper 

going to take charge of a desolate rock 

away from Broome:

"Poor cove, he'll have a lonely time of it."

murmured the Nor'-Wester  compassionately.

His disgust was deep on learning afterwards 

that the dreamy chap was no lighthouse-

keeper but merely the orthodox " West " 

reporter whom Dr. Hackett lets off the 

chain to accompany the touring Ministers 

on their travels.

Conspicuous among the squatter section

of the community aboard was Alex Edgar, 

part owner of De Grey Station, whose 

western border line starts some 60 miles 

from Port Hedland. The Edgars came nearly 

40 years ago from Victoria to develop the 

great pastoral resources of the Nor'-West, 

and with them arrived the Grants, one of 

whom is still a partner in the De Grey 

squattage and the holder of a fine run near 

Geraldton. Squatter Edgar is a fine type of 

the pioneer pastoralist— frank, open, and 

intrepid. His stories of the early struggles 

of the squatters in their work of opening 

up and turning to useful account the then 

almost unknown lands of the North 

Western Australia are full of charm and 

interest. The country swarmed with hostile 

blacks; dreadful droughts laid the skeleton 

herds of the squatters low. De Grey station 

today comprising about 650,000 acres is one

of the best in the State. Roaming over

its plains are 55,000 sheep and some 

15,000 cattle, supplying, some of the primest 

beef in the markets. Last season's wool-clip 

from De Grey amounted to just on 1100 bales, 

which at £12 a bale (to strike an average) 

mounts up to a solid sum. Recent heavy rains 

in the Nor'-West assure an increased output

for the coming season.

There is prosperity generally among the

North-West squatters. One time and only

a few years ago, the immense territory

held by the Bush's on the Gascoyne -it

aggregates about three million acres —

could have been had for the payment of

the mortgages upon it. But times have

changed. This year's wool-clip reached

3000 bales, and probably it would require 

the better part of a million sterling to buy 

out the Bush's to-day. Squatter Bush enjoys 

his wealth in England.

Shark's Bay, our first port of call,

provides an open anchorage, exposed to

gale and wind. and dangerous, low-lying

reefs impede the path of the navigator.

On Dirk Hartog Island and the mainland

however, are prosperous sheep stations.

The community consists of about a hundred 

souls (vide the local policeman, who

came aboard with a Japanese prisoner 

destined for the Carnarvon gaol). Besides

sheep-farming, pearling is also a considerable 

industry at Shark's Bay. A gruesome odor 

floating over the waters came from a pogey-

pot into which the fish cut away from the 

shell raised by the pearlers is thrown and 

boiled, the minute pearls characteristic of 

the bay sinking to the bottom during the 

stewing. The pogey is then emptied on the 

beach where it purifies, and throws off a 

stench, hateful and far-reaching. 

Subsequently it is disintegrated and examined 

for its gems by the pearlers, who seem to be 

doing very well, they lease banks from the 

Government up to 500 acres, and gather in 

shell all the year round, living contentedly 

with their wives and families in modest 

dwellings overlooking the bay. A quaint pub 

and a few quaint out buildings form 

the quaintest township in the Commonwealth. 

The chief joy of the inhabitants is a casual visit 

to the neighboring port of Carnarvon.

Steering steadily over the bounding

wave, the Koombana eventually arrived

at Carnarvon, and tied itself skilfully to

a long jetty extending a mile into the

sea (recently damaged by cyclone Seroja). 

Here the Gascoyne, having its source, some 

150 miles inland, discharges. During the 

passage of the tram to the township one 

noticed gangs of black prisoners at work 

on the roads near by, vigilantly guarded by 

officials of the gaol.

Carnarvon is a bright, refreshing town

giving unmistakable evidence of good

times. The stations back of it stretching 

away along the banks of the Gascoyne, 

are disgorging the results of beneficial

seasons. Piles of wool drawn by

bullocks, are coming in from the 

verdant pastures of the squatters; fat

stock is arriving almost daily for the

metropolis.  The inhabitant has the

flavour of cattle and sheep and hides

about him and his talk is of fencing,

windmills and things that belong to 

the great pastoral industry. It is the 

typical station town showing the saddle-

horse tied up to the pub post and the 

bush turn-out, which brought the whole

family in from some outlying homestead, 

waiting in front of the store. The ship's 

stay was too brief to get at the true 

inwardness of the Carnarvon resident in 

his lair.

Rounding the Nor'-West Cape approaching 

Onslow the old Mildura wrecked some few 

years ago, stood out boldly on the low-lying 

rocks bounding the coast. The vessel went 

ashore in a fog while conveying cattle to 

Fremantle, sustaining however, very little 

damage, but all attempts to refloat her have 

so far failed.

The harbor at Onslow is a hopeless one,

boats having to anchor a mile out in

the open roadstead. It costs you six

shillings return by boat from the 

anchorage to the jetty, which covers a 

distance of 400ft., and then you are toted

per horse-tram some miles to the township 

at a further cost of three shillings.

Onslow is a desolate, forlorn spot— the

last place God made, to quote a resident

who happened along with the parson and

other people prominent in the community. 

Dr. Keenan (erstwhile of Sandstone) 

officiates as R.M.O. and Resident

Magistrate at Onslow. There is plenty of

settlement behind the town along the

Ashburton, which, in wet season gathers 

great force and width for hundreds of

miles. In drought time, however, its

course is marked mostly by diminishing

lagoons. 

Arriving at and departing from Point

Sampson (the port of Cossack) at night,

there was no chance of observing any

thing except that a horse-tram (a pie stall

contrivance of limited accommodation)

carried passengers to the town of 

Roebourne some miles inland. The 

Koombana discharged a locomotive to

supersede the ancient horse, which had 

ambled to and fro since the inception 

of the service many, many years back.

"He's a marvel, that there old hoss"

said a Cossack citizen in tones of

reverence.

" He never jibbed once ter my 

knowledge, and I bin 'ere close on twenty

year.'' The Cossack man further signified

his approval by stroking the aged 

quadruped's mane, and calling him 

"good old Ginger." A query as to whether 

anybody lived at Cossack aroused the 

Cossack inhabitant's indignation. 

"Anybody live ere !" he exclaimed resentfully.

"My oath, there is ! Why, the place is

chockful o' people, but you don't expect

'em to be waiting up all night for this

blanky hooker to come in, do yer ?" Another 

Cossack inhabitant of  lean and hairy

exterior joined him as he bawled out from

the altitude of the jetty (we were on a receding 

tide), and they both glared ferociously into the

depths of the Koombana. By and by the twain

having feasted their eyes on the spectacle

of the unloading steamer, melted away

into the darkness of their revered village. 

Standing out to sea, we wended

our watery way to Port Hedland. 

At sunrise the white roofs of Port Hedland 

gleamed far up in the broken coastline. 

The houses are dumped on a sand-patch in 

perilous proximity to the open ocean, right 

at the mercy of the big waves that prophets 

say will some day lap the township into a 

watery grave.

Viewed from outside the inlet, on the

bank of which it stands, bedraggled and

forlorn, the sport of gale and wind, the

future of Hedland seems, indeed, precarious. 

Provision is made for the terrific blows 

that periodically sweep over the Nor'-West 

coast in the form of wire-ropes flung over 

the buildings and binding them to the sand. 

" But wait till a tidal wave comes !" 

murmured a croaker, " and then there will 

be no more Hedland !" Still there is comfort

in the reflection that the town has reached a 

mature age and yet the demolishing

waters have not engulfed it, nor will the

patriotic residents countenance the 

possibility of a catastrophe.

The Charon has just departed as we

came in, 

SS Charon - courtesy State Library of Western Australia.

but the Paroo lay at anchor

near the jetty. 

SS Paroo - courtesy Flotilla Australia

Port Hedland jetty - courtesy Weston Langford Railway photography.

Volumes of black smoke

arising from her funnel, the spasmodic

churning of her screw, the bustle on deck,

the casting off of lines, and the howling

of somebody aboard to the Koombana,

RMS Koombana - courtesy Trove

which was lying along on the rising

tide, to keep off and give them sea-room

indicated that she also was preparing to

get out.

" Ain't room for two cats to fight."

growled a weather-beaten salt. 

"They'll jamb or knock the jetty over as 

sure as Kerrist !" 

Crash !

The Paroo, squeezing through

without an inch to spare, fouled the

lamp-post at the end of the jetty and

bore it down with a grinding noise.

Fierce language floated towards the 

disturbing Koombana, which slipped 

serenely into the vacant berth after a 

vain attempt to get the vessel's nose to 

seaward.

An incident of the anchorage was the

hasty landing of an excise official, who

immediately beat his way un to the town-

ship at top-speed, followed precipitately

by a Hedland publican, to whom had

been whispered the information that 

"the bloke wot tests the grog was aboard."

It was an exciting struggle as the pair

booted it for the pub, the excise man's

coat-tails fluttering in the breeze as he

tore over the sand of Port -Hedland. The

officer won by a narrow margin and

managed to secure enough below-par

snake-juice to warrant a prosecution.

Valuable 'servant of the State', that excise

man ! '

" Port Hedland, sir, is a place of vast

potentialities," said a local politician,

who stood on the wharf, and discussed

the outlook. "We have broad stretches

of pastoral country out back; we have

mines at Marble Bar. Our resources are

illimitable !" he concluded, looking 

thirstily towards the nearest pub.

Touching on the pastoral industry,

there is abundant evidence of great pastoral 

wealth behind Hedland, where the

finest wool in the country— and grown

on spinifex too  — is being raised. The

De Grey Station, already alluded to, is

considered one of the finest squattages in

the West.

Long have the mines at Marble Bar

languished for want of a railway to convey 

machinery and fuel to the field, but

prosperity should come, provided the

shows are as good as their sponsors declare, 

when the line now going through is 

completed.

A run of 35 miles along the railway

with the Ministerial party gave some

idea of the land back of Port Hedland.

Great, treeless plains extend to the

horizon, but the herbage was abundant

and green from the recent rains. The feed

is mostly spinifex, not of the kind, how-

over, you see on the desert lands of the

eastern goldfields, but soft, bunchy 

fodder, upon which sheep thrive 

wonderfully. 

It is the railway that causes apprehension. 

The flood-waters have shown, in

the washaways, and the subsidences of

the line into the saturated soil under the

weight of trains, that the construction

needs to be far more substantial than it

is that, in fact, it will have to be solidly 

ballasted from end to end. Crossing

one creek we swished through a sheet of

water covering the wheels of the rolling

stock. In other places, as the procession

moved slowly on, the sinking ground was

perceptible, in the swaying motion of the

moving train. The line is out a distance

of 54 miles, but the contractors do not

deem it safe beyond the point which

terminated Colonial Secretary Connolly's

tour of inspection. The Hedland to

Marble Bar railway— a cheap line, 

figuring out at about £1600 a mile— is to

cover a distance of 115 miles. Probably

some £50,000 more than the estimate

will be required to make it a sound 

construction.

Besides its other resources, Port Hedland 

derives a big income from the pearlers, 

whose luggers are regularly moving

in and out of the harbour. Pearling has

proved so lucrative a business that almost 

everybody you meet has an idea of 

launching into the industry, as being

a swifter method of piling up wealth

than waiting about town for things to

turn up. 

Editor Barker, of Port Hedland " Advocate " 

and sometime of Leonora, is one whom 

ambition prompts to go raising shell. 

"The "Advocate" is all very well but there 

is a darned sight more money in battling 

for pearls than advertisements, and being 

called a rag after all your efforts to 

ventilate the grievances of the townspeople.

Propelling a newspaper in the Nor'West is a

cold, cheerless job, full of ingratitude."

At noon we moved away from Hedland

over the last lap of the journey to 

mysterious Broome. We raced the Charon 

at night until she faded astern, in the mist

and darkness, leaving us alone on the

highway (steamer track) that precedes 

the entrance to Roebuck Bay . There were 

luggers coming out to the pearling beds to work

—frail, cockleshell things beside the towering 

Koombana— casual schooners beating up 

against the breeze blowing southwards. Ahead 

was Broome, its white roofs showing out amidst 

a wealth of green foliage fringing the long, 

sweeping, beach from which the tide was fast 

flowing, leaving the lighter craft high and dry

within the bay.

courtesy Trove.